Author: mascots

When you think of summer in Kyoto, the Gion Festival is probably the first thing that comes to mind. This time, I hopped on the Keihan Railway’s rapid limited express “Rakuraku” for a day trip covering the Mitarashi Festival at Shimogamo Shrine, the Shijo area where traces of the Gion Festival linger, and Honno-ji Temple — a must-see for history fans. Here’s my full report on the charms of Kyoto that you can only experience in the heat of summer!

Starting the Trip in Comfort on the Keihan Rapid Limited Express “Rakuraku”

Whenever I travel from Osaka to Kyoto, my goto train is the Keihan Railway’s rapid limited express “Rakuraku.” You can board at Yodoyabashi or Kyobashi Station, and with only a few stops along the way, it whisks you to Demachiyanagi Station in no time. True to its name — a play on words meaning “to Kyoto (Raku), with ease (raku)” — the concept itself is charming.

The best thing about the Rakuraku is, without a doubt, its comfort. If you opt for the Premium Car, you can spend the ride in style in a spacious reclining seat. The Uji River and Kyoto’s townscape drift past the window, building anticipation for the day ahead. Departing while the morning is still cool also means you get a full day for sightseeing. This time, I left Yodoyabashi Station around 10 a.m. and arrived at Demachiyanagi Station about 50 minutes later. Note that the Rakuraku mainly runs on weekends and public holidays, so be sure to check the schedule before you go. Advance reservations are required for the Premium Car — book here!

Praying for Good Health at Shimogamo Shrine’s Mitarashi Festival

About a 12minute walk from Demachiyanagi Station, I arrived at Shimogamo Shrine, nestled in the greenery of the Tadasu no Mori forest. Officially known as Kamo Mioya Shrine, it is a venerable shrine registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Summer at Shimogamo Shrine is synonymous with the famous Mitarashi Festival, held every year around the “Doyo no Ushi” day of midsummer.

Also known as the “footdipping ritual” (ashitsuke shinji), the Mitarashi Festival is a beloved summer tradition in which visitors wade into the shrine’s Mitarashi Pond to pray for health and protection from illness. Holding a candle in hand, you walk through the chilly spring water. The water is said to stay around 15°C even in summer — cold enough to make you gasp at first! But as I kept walking, it strangely began to feel pleasant, and I felt a refreshing sensation, as if all the impurities were being washed out of my body.

I offered my candle at the small shrine at the far end of the pond and prayed earnestly for good health. After drying your feet, you can also write a wish on an “ashigata kitogi” (foot-shaped prayer plaque) available at the shrine and dedicate it. And here’s a fun fact: this Mitarashi Pond is said to be the birthplace of mitarashi dango, the famous sweet soy-glazed dumplings! After your visit, be sure to try some at a nearby teahouse — the fragrant aroma of freshly grilled dango is irresistible.

A word of advice: weekends during this period get extremely crowded. That said, the Tadasu no Mori forest provides plenty of shade, and the line moves quickly, so this is one ritual I wholeheartedly recommend experiencing.

Strolling Shijo and the Otabisho: Echoes of the Gion Festival

Leaving Shimogamo Shrine behind, I took the Keihan Line from Demachiyanagi to Gion-Shijo Station. In July, Kyoto is all about the Gion Festival. Even if you miss the grand float processions of the Saki Matsuri (early festival) and Ato Matsuri (later festival), the afterglow of the celebration lingers everywhere.

Walking along Shijo Street, I came across the Otabisho — the resting place where the portable shrines (mikoshi) of Yasaka Shrine are enshrined after the Shinkosai procession. Known as the Shijo Otabisho, it stands on Shijo Street just east of Teramachi Street. During the Gion Festival, the mikoshi remain here for seven days, receiving the prayers of the townspeople. Even when the mikoshi are absent, passing by the Otabisho you can sense the living history and tradition of the Gion Festival — I couldn’t help but stop and take it all in.

Step into the side streets off Shijo, and you’ll catch glimpses of how deeply the festival is woven into local life: machiya townhouses that retain the atmosphere of the historic float-building neighborhoods, residents putting away festival lanterns, and more. Visiting slightly off-peak lets you connect with Kyoto’s culture on a deeper level — one of the true joys of travel.

Honno-ji Temple and the Site of the Honno-ji Incident: Visiting a Turning Point in History

A short walk north from Shijo brought me to Honno-ji Temple on Teramachi Street. The temple is famous for the “Honno-ji Incident,” but here’s the thing: the present-day Honno-ji actually stands in a different location from where Oda Nobunaga met his end.

The current temple was relocated to this site in 1591 (Tensho 19) as part of Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s redevelopment of Kyoto. The grounds include a memorial tower for Nobunaga and a treasure museum displaying items connected to him — an absolute delight for fans of Sengoku-era history. After paying my respects at the main hall, I toured the museum and viewed Nobunaga’s personal effects and letters. The history you learned from textbooks confronts you here as vivid reality.

And there’s one more place I urge you to visit: the site of the original Honno-ji. The actual location of the Honno-ji Incident lies about one kilometer west of the current temple, near the intersection of Aburanokoji and Takoyakushi Streets. Today, only a stone marker and an information board remain, surrounded by apartment buildings and shops. Yet standing on that unassuming street corner, you can’t help but be moved by the thought that an event which changed the course of Japanese history happened right here. Visiting both the temple and the original site gave me a much deeper appreciation of the layers of history.

In Closing: Summer in Kyoto Is Best Enjoyed Chasing History and Cool Relief

This trip packed a lot into one day: a comfortable ride on the Keihan Rakuraku, cooling off at Shimogamo Shrine’s Mitarashi Festival while praying for good health, strolling the Shijo area still aglow with the spirit of the Gion Festival, and soaking in history at Honno-ji Temple and the site of the original temple.

Kyoto summers have a reputation for brutal heat, but there are plenty of places to stay cool — the chilly spring water of the Mitarashi Festival, the shade of the Tadasu no Mori forest, and more. And by timing your visit to avoid peak events like the float processions, you can enjoy the festival atmosphere without the crowds. History, nature, and living traditions — that’s summer in Kyoto. Hop on the Rakuraku and discover your own Kyoto journey!

⚠️ Service ended — Both of Kansai’s Hello Kitty trains have now finished running. The Hello Kitty livery on the Haruka airport express ended in March 2026, and the Hello Kitty Shinkansen made its final run on Sunday, 17 May 2026. This article is a record of what they were like. If you are planning a trip and looking for what you can still ride, skip to the last two sections.

What this article covers

・What the two Hello Kitty trains of Kansai were actually like

・Where to find the Hello Kitty headrest covers on the Haruka

・Inside the Hello Kitty Shinkansen, and the goods sold on board

・How hard the reservations were, and what you can still ride today

Kansai Had Two Hello Kitty Trains, and Most People Only Knew About One

Even railway fans in Japan were often surprised by this: Kansai had two trains themed around Hello Kitty, not one. There was the Haruka, the limited express that runs from Kansai International Airport, and there was the Hello Kitty Shinkansen on the Sanyo line. They were completely different experiences, and I rode both.

1. The Haruka: Look Closely and Hello Kitty Is on Every Seat

The Haruka is the limited express most travellers take out of Kansai International Airport, heading for Kyoto and Shin-Osaka. Look into the carriage and you will find Hello Kitty on the headrest cover of every seat, in a kimono. It is easy to miss if you are not looking for it.

The Haruka is operated by JR West and reaches Kyoto from the airport in about 75 minutes. IC cards such as ICOCA and Suica can be used, which makes it a straightforward first train to take after you land.

2. The Hello Kitty Shinkansen: The 500 Series I Booked a Trip Around

This was the one I had wanted to ride for years, and finally did.

It ran just one round trip a day between Hakata and Shin-Osaka, which made it a rare train to catch. A reservation was essential — you could not simply turn up and hope.

Hello Kitty Inside and Out

What made this Shinkansen remarkable was that the theme did not stop at the paintwork. The seats, the walls, the floor — Hello Kitty was everywhere you looked inside the carriage.

Hello Kitty Goods Sold On Board

There was also a range of Hello Kitty Shinkansen exclusive goods sold on board. Even if you are not particularly a Hello Kitty person, they were charming enough that you found yourself buying something before you had really decided to.

The Hello Kitty Shinkansen was a 500 Series train operated by JR West, running one round trip a day between Hakata and Shin-Osaka. The 500 Series itself is now approaching retirement.

The People Who Loved This Train

While it was running, the Hello Kitty Shinkansen was the sort of train that drew a particular mix of passenger

• People who loved Hello Kitty
• People who wanted to ride a 500 Series Shinkansen
• People who simply wanted a cheerful train journey
• Families travelling with young children
• Visitors from overseas, for whom it made a memorable first Shinkansen ride

The Haruka Itself Is Still Running

The Hello Kitty headrest covers disappeared in March 2026, but the Haruka limited express itself has not gone anywhere. It still runs between Kansai International Airport and Kyoto exactly as before. If you are landing at KIX and heading for Kyoto, it remains a perfectly good option — just without the cat.

And the 500 Series Is Still Running, For Now

This is the part worth knowing if you are planning a trip to Japan.

The Hello Kitty livery is gone, but 500 Series trains themselves continue to run on part of the Sanyo Shinkansen. That long, rounded nose is still one of the most admired shapes in Japanese railways, and it is still out there.

JR West has announced that scheduled 500 Series services will end on 13 January 2027, with the train retiring from revenue service entirely in July 2027. In other words, there is a little over a year left to ride one.

If You Missed Them, the Goods Are Still Around

Both trains have stopped running, but Hello Kitty Shinkansen commemorative goods can still be found through Japanese online marketplaces. If you never got the chance to ride, they are a way to keep a piece of it.

There Is a Station in Tokyo Covered in Hello Kitty

Kansai’s two Hello Kitty trains have finished, but the pairing of Sanrio and railways is alive and well in the Tokyo area.

On 19 October 2023 I spent the day in the Tama area of western Tokyo. Waiting for a train at Chofu station on the Keio Line, what pulled in was a pale pink wrapped train. Beside one door, Lala was holding a bunch of pansies; on another carriage, Cinnamoroll was carrying cosmos. It reminded me of the Little Twin Stars star house I was given as a child and kept carefully for years, and I took a photograph almost without thinking.

The train was not what surprised me most that day, though. That came at Keio Tama-Center, the station for Sanrio Puroland, when I happened to look up. There were Hello Kitty characters across the ceiling, all over the place. A wrapped train is not unusual, but a station that is itself covered in Hello Kitty had never occurred to me, and I stood there looking around for a while. I had got off there knowing nothing about it, which made it all the more startling.

I learned later that Keio Tama-Center has been decorated in collaboration with Sanrio Puroland since 2016, and that Hello Kitty serves as its honorary stationmaster. Pom Pom Purin is the group leader, My Melody handles customer enquiries, Cinnamoroll looks after lost property, and the Little Twin Stars are in charge of patrolling the platform. Which means the characters I had photographed at Chofu that morning were, at Tama-Center, on duty.

What I regret is not taking a single photograph of the station. I simply stood and stared, and that was that.

One more thing worth knowing. There are two Tama-Center stations, Keio and Odakyu, standing side by side. The Odakyu one has been decorated since 2018, and in February 2026 its interior was completely redecorated, with the number of Sanrio characters on display rising from four to fourteen. I have not seen that one yet. When I do, I will write it up.

In Closing

Both trains have finished their runs. What is left is the record — the photographs, the headrest covers, the pink deck, the goods. If you rode one of them, you were there for something that no longer exists. If you did not, the 500 Series is still running, and there is still time.

The full account of the last ride on the 500 Series Hello Kitty Shinkansen is here

Summary: Two Hello Kitty Trains of Kansai

Spring 2026 — the day has finally come. With the beloved 500 Series Hello Kitty Shinkansen heading into retirement, we set off on one last ride to bid it farewell! We also hopped aboard the Anpanman Train in Shikoku, making this a dream trip packed with character trains from start to finish.

The Pink Dream Train: Hello Kitty Shinkansen

As the vivid pink 500 Series Hello Kitty Shinkansen glided into the platform at Shin-Osaka Station, our mascots let out a collective “Wow, it’s real! So cute!” — and stood completely frozen on the platform for a good while.

Since its debut in 2018, this train has captured the hearts of fans across Japan with its charming appearance. The 500 Series, with its sleek aerodynamic form, was once the fastest Shinkansen on the Nozomi route — a legendary train in its own right. Wrapped in Hello Kitty’s iconic style, it took on an entirely new kind of charm.

Stepping inside, Car 1 — the “HELLO! PLAZA” — was filled with limited-edition merchandise and photo spots. The corner where you could take commemorative photos with Hello Kitty was especially popular, given that this was one of the final rides. Even the headrest covers featured Hello Kitty designs, showing just how much attention to detail went into every corner of the train. The roughly one hour to Okayama passed like a dream, with our mascots smiling the entire way.

💡 Travel Tip: The HELLO! PLAZA in Car 1 is located in the unreserved seating area, meaning you can visit the shop and photo spots with just a regular ticket. It gets crowded quickly, so head there as soon as you board!

Shikoku’s Beloved Icon: The Anpanman Train to Tokushima

From Okayama, we boarded the Marine Liner rapid service across to Takamatsu — and from there, our Shikoku adventure truly began. We were about to ride the Anpanman Train on the Kotoku Line, a service that launched in October 2025. Operated by JR Shikoku, the Anpanman Train runs on multiple routes centered around Kochi, the hometown of creator Takashi Yanase.

The moment our mascots spotted Anpanman and his friends painted across the entire side of the train, they burst out with “Anpanman! Baikinman is there too!” — pure joy. It’s the kind of sight that brings out the child in anyone. The interior is completely themed around the world of Anpanman, creating a space that puts smiles on the faces of families with children and adults alike. There were also unique characters like “Udon-chan” and “Udon-kun,” a charming nod to the region’s famous Sanuki udon — just one of many delightful surprises waiting inside the train.

💡 Travel Tip: The Anpanman Train operates on specific dates and routes. Be sure to check the official JR Shikoku website for the current schedule before making your plans.

What Makes Character Trains So Special

Both the Hello Kitty Shinkansen and the Anpanman Train are more than just a way to get from A to B — they are destinations in themselves. Character trains give children something to dream about, while offering adults a sense of nostalgia and warmth. Gazing out the window, surrounded by beloved characters, turns an ordinary journey into something truly memorable.

Saying goodbye to the 500 Series Hello Kitty Shinkansen is bittersweet — but the memories from this trip will stay with us forever. If you ever get the chance, hop aboard one of Japan’s many character trains and experience the magic for yourself!

Trip Summary

📝 500 Series Hello Kitty Shinkansen — Basic Information

📝 500 Series Hello Kitty Shinkansen — Key Facts

・Route: Shin-Osaka to Hakata
・Travel time: Approx. 2.5 hours (compared to Nozomi)
・Operation period: 2018 – May 17, 2026 (service ended)
・Features: Car 1 “HELLO! PLAZA” with Kitty-themed interior
・Reservations: JR tickets, e5489, or Midori-no-madoguchi

💡 For Those Considering a Ride
The 500 Series Hello Kitty Shinkansen concluded its service on May 17, 2026. For information on successor character trains, please visit the JR West official website.

Kansai had a second Hello Kitty train. The Haruka, the limited express that runs from Kansai International Airport, carried its own Hello Kitty livery, and I rode both before they finished. You can read how Kansai’s two Hello Kitty trains compared in a separate article.

Kansai’s two Hello Kitty trains, ridden and compared

A rare business trip to Utsunomiya, and an unexpected encounter on the way home. Along with a good deal of regret.

Heading Home After Work

When we book the Shinkansen home from a business trip, we almost always choose whatever leaves soonest after the work finishes. Meetings can overrun, or wrap up early, so the priority is simply “the first train we can catch.”

This trip was no different. We gave no thought at all to which train it would be.

Our usual line is the Tokaido Shinkansen; we rarely have reason to use the Tohoku Shinkansen. It had been a long time since we’d even been to Utsunomiya.

A Streak of Crimson on the Platform

Glancing idly at a phone on the platform, we had the sense that the light coming into the station had turned red, and looked up.

Sliding quietly in was an E8 Series Shinkansen “Tsubasa” in vivid crimson — the livery known as “Kabuki Color.” It has the presence of something that has stepped straight off a traditional theatre stage.

The sharp nose of the lead car against that glossy crimson is a genuinely striking combination. Other passengers on the platform were reaching for their cameras too. We shot away, thoroughly taken with it.

We were determined to film it while it was moving, and remember concentrating hard on doing exactly that.

The E8 Series entered service in 2024 on the Yamagata Shinkansen. Its deep crimson is drawn from the safflower, the official flower of Yamagata Prefecture. Between Tokyo and Fukushima it runs coupled to a Tohoku Shinkansen “Yamabiko,” separating at Fukushima to continue toward Yamagata. Utsunomiya lies within the coupled section.

And Our Train Was the Next One

Here is the part that still stings.

The Kabuki Color arrived as the service immediately before the one we had booked.

That crimson ran past us. We got the shots we wanted. What we didn’t get was a ride. Had we booked one train earlier, we would have been on it.

Watching it pull away from the platform, the regret set in slowly.

We Should Have Researched a Line We Never Use

Thinking about it calmly, the cause is obvious.

We had forgotten the E8 “Kabuki Color” existed at all.

Because we so rarely take the Tohoku Shinkansen, we had never looked into what runs on it. We booked purely on “the first train after work finishes,” and the question of rolling stock never entered our heads.

Which is faintly absurd. On the Tokaido Shinkansen we’re particular enough to specify seat E in order to see Mount Fuji. On a line we know, we care about the seat number. On a line we don’t, we checked nothing whatsoever.

If you’re planning to take the Tohoku or Yamagata Shinkansen When you book, take a moment to check which type of train operates that particular service. JR East’s site and the Ekinet booking service both show the rolling stock for individual trains. Shifting your booking by one service can change what you get to ride. The less familiar the line, the more this small step is worth.

Looking It Up Afterwards: You Can Still Board a Full Train

Smarting from the whole thing, we went and read up on the Tsubasa when we got home. Which is how we learned something we hadn’t known.

The Tsubasa is entirely reserved-seating, year round. There are no unreserved cars. However, when the reserved seats sell out, a “standing limited express ticket” (立席特急券 / tachiseki tokkyūken) is released.

• It costs ¥330–¥930 less than an ordinary reserved seat
• You are, in principle, expected to stand — the ticket itself states that it does not entitle you to a seat
• In practice, if a seat happens to be free, sitting in it is not a problem

The catch is how you buy it. These tickets are not sold through Ekinet. You have to buy one at a reserved-seat ticket machine in a station, on the day of travel or the day before. If you’re searching online from overseas you simply won’t find it, so plan on doing this at a station.

Standing all the way home after a day’s work isn’t much of a plan. But knowing there’s an option other than giving up when everything is sold out felt like something worth having. For a leisure trip, we’d take it.

Please note: this is information we looked up after the fact rather than something we’ve used ourselves. Check JR East’s official guidance for the current terms.

For everyday travel, “whatever gets me home fastest” is a perfectly reasonable rule. But on a line you’ll only ride once in a long while, it’s worth spending a few minutes before you book — a lesson this trip delivered rather firmly.

In Summary: We Saw It, and We Missed It

Those few minutes on the platform at Utsunomiya were genuinely memorable. Precisely because we weren’t expecting it, the shock of that crimson appearing in front of us landed hard.

Honestly, though, the frustration of not riding it has stayed with us more strongly.

Next time we head north, we’ll check the timetable and the rolling stock before booking. Booking the Tsubasa on purpose — that’s the homework now.

The trip home from a business trip pulls you toward “whichever train leaves first.” There’s nothing wrong with that. But apply it on a line you’ll rarely see again and this is the sort of thing you’re left with. Next time, we’ll be a little greedier.

How particular the same writer gets on a line they do know well is covered here.

→ Riding the Tokaido Shinkansen N700S for Work | How to See Mount Fuji from Your Seat