Category: Express Train Travel

What You’ll Learn in This Article

• How to get to the Mount Fuji area by train via Kaiji and Fujisan Express
• The unique interior and headcovers of the Fujisan Express
• All about Yoshida Udon — Fujiyoshida’s beloved local specialty
• Information on the Fuji View Express — next on our must-ride list!

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Shin-Yokohama → Yokohama Line → Hachioji — Already Feeling the Yamanashi Vibe!

Our journey began at Shin-Yokohama Station, transferring to the Yokohama Line bound for Hachioji Station.

Despite still being within Tokyo, the Kiosk at Hachioji Station was already stocked with Shingen Mochi — the famous sweet from Yamanashi. And this time, a very special find caught our eye: a limited-edition Shingen Mochi in a commemorative drawstring pouch celebrating the 500th anniversary of Shingen’s birth! We made a firm mental note to pick one up on the way home, then boarded Kaiji No. 39.

Limited Express Kaiji is operated by JR East between Shinjuku and Kofu / Matsumoto. It also stops at Hachioji, reaching Otsuki in approximately 30 minutes. On weekday evenings, seats are plentiful and every seat comes with a power outlet — making it perfect for working on the go.

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Kaiji on a Weekday Evening — The Perfect Mobile Office

On a weekday evening, the Kaiji was noticeably uncrowded, with power outlets at every seat. Laptop open, work in progress — the 30-minute ride to Otsuki passed in no time.

Tips for Riding the Kaiji

• Power outlets at every seat — ideal for working on the go
• Quieter than expected on weekday evenings
• Only about 30 minutes from Hachioji to Otsuki
• Both reserved and unreserved seating available

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Transfer at Otsuki Station to the Fujisan Express — Welcome to the Fujikyu Railway World!

Just 30 minutes from Hachioji, we arrived at Otsuki Station and transferred to Fujisan Express No. 5.

Stepping onto the Fujikyu Railway platform, we were immediately greeted by a parade of brightly wrapped trains arriving and departing. The colorful lineup of vehicles made it instantly clear — we had arrived in Mount Fuji country.

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The Fujisan Express Interior Is Pure Joy! Don’t Miss the Headcovers

The Fujisan Express is covered in Mount Fuji illustrations — inside and out. The moment you step aboard, your excitement levels shoot straight up.

The real highlight? The headcovers on the seats, each featuring a completely different illustration of Mount Fuji. You’ll find yourself checking every single one.

A Selection of Unique Headcover Designs

• “Whale Fuji” — a whale swimming alongside Mount Fuji
• “Yellow Fuji” — a vivid, sunshine-yellow Mount Fuji
• “Fuji Three Brothers” — a playful trio of Fuji peaks (a nod to the famous “Dango Three Brothers”!)

Hunting for your favorite headcover design is one of the great joys of riding this train!

Fujisan Express is operated by Fujikyu Railway between Otsuki and Kawaguchiko. Filled with playful Mount Fuji-themed design throughout, it is enormously popular with tourists and railway fans alike.

Trying Yoshida Udon — Fujiyoshida’s Legendary Local Noodle

No visit to the Mount Fuji area is complete without Yoshida Udon — the proud local specialty of Fujiyoshida City.

We ordered a bowl with miso broth and chikuwa tempura topping. The firm, chewy noodles paired beautifully with the miso-based soup, creating a simple but deeply satisfying flavor. Taking our seats at a restaurant called “Genji,” we looked up to find a stunning view of Mount Fuji framing the backdrop — a view that stopped us in our tracks all over again. Only in Fujiyoshida can you enjoy great food and a great view at the same time.

Yoshida Udon is a regional specialty of Fujiyoshida City, Yamanashi Prefecture. Known for its exceptionally firm and chewy texture and its distinctive blend of miso and soy sauce broth, it offers a completely different experience from typical Japanese udon. A must-try when visiting the Mount Fuji area!

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The Return Journey on Fuji Kaiyu — and a Stunning Surprise on the Platform

For the return leg, we took the Fuji Kaiyu — a direct and convenient option back toward Tokyo.

While waiting on the platform, a very special train glided in: the Fuji View Express, designed by renowned automotive designer Mitsuoka Akio. That striking crimson red body was absolutely breathtaking. This is officially next on our must-ride list!

Fuji View Express is a sightseeing limited express operated by Fujikyu Railway. Designed by automotive designer Mitsuoka Akio, its bold crimson exterior is instantly recognizable. All seats are reserved, so advance booking is recommended if you’d like to ride.

Don’t Forget the Souvenir — Special Shingen Mochi at Hachioji!

On the way home at Hachioji Station, we successfully picked up the special 500th anniversary commemorative pouch Shingen Mochi we had spotted in the morning. A limited-edition souvenir that made the perfect memento of the trip.

Shingen Mochi is also available online!

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Access Summary | Getting to the Mount Fuji Area by Train

Section	Train	Journey Time
Shin-Yokohama → Hachioji	Yokohama Line	Approx. 40 min
Hachioji → Otsuki	Limited Express Kaiji	Approx. 30 min
Otsuki → Kawaguchiko	Fujisan Express	Approx. 50 min
Return	Fuji Kaiyu	Direct & convenient

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Summary | The Mount Fuji Area Offers So Much More Than Just the Mountain!

Spot / Train	Highlights
Limited Express Kaiji	Power outlets at every seat — work while you travel
Fujisan Express	Unique headcovers & Mount Fuji-themed interior throughout
Yoshida Udon	Miso broth, chikuwa tempura & a stunning Fuji backdrop
Fuji View Express	Mitsuoka’s crimson masterpiece — next on the must-ride list!

The Mount Fuji area offers a completely different experience with each train you ride. We highly recommend combining multiple trains for a truly memorable journey!

What this article covers

• What it actually takes to get aboard The Royal Express — including the time we lost the ballot
• The real cost and contents of the meal-inclusive boarding plan
• What you’re given on board: the meal, the live music, the free drinks
• The extra hoop we had to jump through during the pandemic

A News Item: The Royal Express Is Coming to Tokai

Recently we came across a news item reporting that The Royal Express would be running in the Tokai region.

That Royal Blue body, running through Tokai. Reading it brought back the time we actually rode it — and that’s what this article is about.

The Royal Express is a luxury sightseeing train operated by Tokyu Corporation. Known for its sleek Royal Blue livery and its onboard service, it runs as a tour train in Izu, Hokkaido and elsewhere. You cannot board it with an ordinary ticket — it is sold only as part of a travel package, which matters a great deal if you’re planning a trip to Japan around it.

Getting Aboard Took Half a Year — Including One Failed Ballot

We rode on 21 January 2022. Getting to that date was a long business.

Our first application went in on 6 August 2021, for a departure on 22 October. And then — we lost the ballot.

Because this is a tour train, applying does not mean riding. Capacity is 17 parties, and popular dates fill immediately.

Unwilling to let it go, we applied again on 18 October, this time for a departure the following January. And that one came through. Nearly six months had passed since our first attempt.

From “we have to ride this” to actually riding it took half a year. If you’re planning to try, it’s worth going in expecting that you may need more than one attempt — and worth knowing that a second application is entirely normal.

A Chaotic Run-Up: the PCR Test

This was a pandemic-era departure, which meant a PCR test was required shortly before travel. That part caused a certain amount of panic.

Booking the test, waiting for the result, and the knowledge that a positive result would undo everything — after waiting half a year, we weren’t calm about any of it until the last moment.

Looking back, the sheer amount of effort we put in purely to get on this train has become part of the memory of the trip.

The Meal-Inclusive Plan: What It Costs and What You Get

We booked the meal-inclusive boarding plan (one way).

The plan, as it was at the time Class: Platinum Class (Cars 5, 6 and 7) Route: JR Yokohama → Izukyu-Shimoda Duration: about 3 hours 20 minutes Price: ¥39,000 per person Meal: a set course, served with live music Drinks: free-flow Capacity: 17 parties / junior high school age and above

The meal came as a choice of Western, Japanese or creative Japanese courses. We chose the Western course, supervised by Shunkotei.

¥39,000 for a 3 hour 20 minute journey. Put like that it sounds steep, but it stops sounding steep once you understand that what you’re buying isn’t transport — it’s three hours with a meal and a live performance in it. When we pulled into Shimoda, our main feeling was that it had gone too quickly.

Passenger Badges — an Immediate Hit with the Mascots

On boarding, the first thing handed to us was a passenger identification badge.

This went down enormously well with the mascots. From the moment the badges appeared they were beside themselves, and no amount of quiet encouragement had the slightest effect.

That a badge alone could produce this much delight was a surprise. The small ceremonial touches start lifting the mood before the train has even moved.

All Aboard — and the Mascots Go Wild

Stepping into an interior finished throughout in Royal Blue, the mascots were immediately, audibly thrilled.

It’s a calm, wood-toned space with the tables properly set. Because this is a tour train, there is no tour conductor travelling with you — The Royal Express’s own crew look after the carriage.

Live Piano and Violin On Board

One of the centrepieces of this plan is the live music.

We heard both piano and violin performed live in the carriage. Musicians playing a few feet in front of you, on a moving train — it isn’t an experience you can easily find elsewhere.

A meal in front of you, scenery sliding past the window, and music being played live. “Travel time” is not the right phrase for those three hours and twenty minutes.

A Rare Sight: The Mascots’ Wistful, Quiet Moment

Even these thoroughly excitable mascots had a moment of something like wistfulness.

Sitting and watching the scenery go by, they looked quite unlike their usual selves — a rare photograph. Drawing out an expression like that is something only a journey like this manages.

Mascots Will Be Mascots

The wistfulness didn’t last. By the end of the journey they were, inevitably, playing with a ball — making it entirely clear they hadn’t finished enjoying themselves.

Even a luxury train turns into something rather homely with the mascots along.

If You Want to Ride The Royal Express

You cannot board with an ordinary ticket. You must apply through a travel package.

Three things we’d pass on from our own experience:

• Capacity is small, and you can lose the ballot. We did, once
• Losing doesn’t end it. Apply for the next departure — if you’re prepared to wait half a year, there’s a way through
• Operating dates are irregular. The official site and social media need checking regularly

Course contents and prices vary by operating period. Always check the current details before applying — what we describe here is how it stood in early 2022.

Summary | What ¥39,000 Buys for 3 Hours and 20 Minutes

Date	21 January 2022
Route	JR Yokohama → Izukyu-Shimoda (approx. 3 hr 20 min)
Class	Platinum Class (Cars 5, 6, 7)
Price	¥39,000 per person (meal-inclusive boarding plan)
Meal	Western course, supervised by Shunkotei
Music	Live piano and violin
Drinks	Free-flow
Booking	Lost the ballot on 6 August 2021; applied again 18 October and won
Requirement at the time	PCR test before departure

We lost a ballot, applied again, took a PCR test, and finally got three hours and twenty minutes aboard.

And now there’s news that it will be running in the Tokai region. If the chance comes round again, we won’t hesitate this time.

14 August 2024. Our summer trip began early in the morning at Nagoya Station. Day one was meant to be a straightforward run up to Kanazawa and nothing more. Then, that evening, a typhoon turned the whole plan upside down.

Leaving Nagoya at 7:51 — and a Surprising Fact About the Shirasagi No. 1

The first train of the trip was the Limited Express Shirasagi No. 1, departing Nagoya at 7:51.

“Number 1 must mean it’s the first run of the day,” we assumed. It turns out that isn’t the case. This set had already made a run that morning as a “Home Liner” commuter service before taking up its duty as the Shirasagi.

So “No. 1” doesn’t mean the train hasn’t been anywhere yet. We boarded the freshly turned-out Shirasagi No. 1 and set off along the shore of Lake Biwa toward Tsuruga.

Day one, on the rails Limited Express Shirasagi No. 1 — Nagoya 7:51 → Tsuruga 9:27 (Car 4, seats 1A and 1B) ‹ 19-minute connection at Tsuruga › Hokuriku Shinkansen Tsurugi No. 8 — Tsuruga 9:46 → Kanazawa 10:43 (Car 7, seats 9D and 9E) ¥18,960 for two adults = ¥9,480 per person (¥4,970 limited express charge + ¥4,510 base fare) As of August 2024

Turning the Seats Around by Hand at Maibara

Partway through the run, at Maibara Station, a small task landed on us.

The train reverses direction here, which means passengers turn their own seats around. On local rapid services this is a familiar sight, but the chance to do it on a limited express is increasingly rare.

The mascots were thrilled to try it for the first time. Once the seats were swung round and we sat back down, the scenery that had been receding behind us was suddenly rushing toward us. Same train, but from here on it felt like a different vehicle entirely.

Changing to the Tsurugi No. 8 at Tsuruga

The connection at Tsuruga was 19 minutes — unhurried, with time to move without rushing.

The Tsurugi runs on the Hokuriku Shinkansen between Tsuruga and Toyama, a service introduced when the line was extended in March 2024. We were riding it in the summer of its first year. We reached Kanazawa at 10:43, roughly three hours out of Nagoya.

Kanazawa: Gold Leaf, Salt Bread and the Castle

Applying gold leaf at Sakuda, in Higashiyama

Kanazawa means gold leaf. We had booked a gold leaf application workshop at Sakuda in Higashiyama for 1pm.

Working under a craftsman’s guidance, you apply the leaf yourself. It is thin enough that a single breath will send it flying, so you find yourself breathing shallowly without meaning to. It takes real concentration, and finishing a piece is genuinely satisfying.

Kenrokuen: we gave up because of the heat

An honest admission. We had intended to visit Kenrokuen, one of Japan’s three great gardens.

The August heat in Kanazawa was beyond anything we had planned for. There was no shade on the walk, our willpower ran out, and we simply gave up — turning back with one of the country’s most famous gardens within reach.

Instead we headed for Higashi Chaya District, the old teahouse quarter, which lies in the same direction as the Higashiyama workshop, so we could walk straight on from there.

And then a local craft beer at a Kanazawa pudding shop. That cold glass was the most effective thing that happened all day. Because the plan fell apart, this is the part we remember most clearly.

If you’re walking around Kanazawa in midsummer, we’d suggest building more indoor stops into your plan than you think you need. Japanese summer heat is not something to underestimate.

Salt bread from Kanazawa German Bakery

At Kanazawa German Bakery in the Kanazawa Hyakubangai Rinto shopping area inside the station, we came across shiopan — salt bread. Simple, but the balance of salt is just right, and we ended up buying more to take home. Being inside the station, it’s easy to grab on your way out.

Kanazawa Castle

Under a clear August sky, the contrast between the stone walls and white plaster was superb. Kanazawa’s strength is that gold leaf workshops, food and historic sites all sit within walking distance of one another.

A Typhoon, an Emergency Meeting, and Giving Up on Tokyo

Then, that evening, word came that a typhoon was likely to make landfall in the Kanto region.

The plan for the following day had been to travel to Tokyo. The purpose was a railway event at Tokyo Big Sight, and the whole itinerary had been built around it.

We held an emergency meeting in our Kanazawa hotel — comparing the typhoon’s track and timing against the rail suspension notices. The conclusion:

“We give up on Tokyo. Let’s eat fish in Toyama, eat Hida beef, and come back to Nagoya via Takayama.”

Rather than heading east, we would run west, away from it. Letting go of an event we’d looked forward to was a disappointment, but far better than being stranded in Kanto. A determinedly positive decision, in true mascot style.

The revised route Kanazawa →(Hokuriku Shinkansen Hakutaka No. 560)→ Toyama →(Limited Express Hida)→ Takayama → Nagoya

How that decision played out the next day is covered in the typhoon day article. In short: we ended up riding Gran Class for the first time, and our train was halted at Gifu.

Summary | Day One’s Trains

Train	Section and times
Limited Express Shirasagi No. 1	Nagoya 7:51 → Tsuruga 9:27
Hokuriku Shinkansen Tsurugi No. 8	Tsuruga 9:46 → Kanazawa 10:43

Day one was a quiet one — travel and sightseeing, nothing more. Trips don’t always go to plan, but it’s equally true that abandoning the plan is what led us somewhere else. Behind the Kenrokuen we gave up on were a teahouse district and a cold beer.

Read what happened on the typhoon day here:

→ Typhoon Travel Turned Luxury Adventure! Gran Class, Green Car & an Unexpected Meitetsu Bonus

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What happened afterwards

The Tokyo railway event we abandoned here, we went back for in the summer of 2025. And from there we carried on into Tohoku, where this time we rode Gran Class for more than two hours. Homework, finally handed in a year late.

→ Visiting the 2025 Railway Convention | Theme: Freight Trains!

The previous day we had taken the limited express Revaty Kegon out to Tobu-Nikko and visited Nikko Toshogu Shrine. Day two of the trip belonged to steam locomotives and turntables — and as it turned out, we watched a turntable at work twice, at two different stations.

Shimo-Imaichi Station — A Hidden Sacred Ground for Railway Fans

“Shimo-Imaichi” is a bit of a mouthful if you’re not used to it, but the station is well worth a stop if you like railways.

Shimo-Imaichi has both an engine shed and a turntable for its steam locomotives, so you can watch a locomotive emerge from the shed and be turned, right in front of you.

A turntable is the equipment used to rotate a steam locomotive through 180 degrees. The one at Shimo-Imaichi is in active service, which makes this a rare place to watch the process at close range.

We began the morning by travelling from Tobu-Nikko across to Shimo-Imaichi to watch SL Taiju being turned. This is a different train from the SL Taiju Futara we would board later — the two work different sections, so Shimo-Imaichi gives you a chance to see both.

What Froze the Mascots Wasn’t the Turntable — It Was the Whistle

Watching a locomotive slowly change direction is impressive enough on its own. But what startled the mascots most wasn’t the turntable at all. It was the whistle.

A sound like the ground itself shifting — and every one of them stood frozen for several seconds. That was the moment we understood that the sheer presence of a working steam locomotive does not come through in photographs or video.

It’s worth experiencing whether or not you’re a railway fan, and perhaps especially if you’ve never stood next to a steam locomotive before. Sound is the one thing you can’t take home with you.

Back to Tobu-Nikko to Board SL Taiju Futara

Having watched the turning, we headed back to Tobu-Nikko Station. This was the main event: boarding SL Taiju Futara.

Departing Tobu-Nikko at 13:03, arriving Kinugawa-Onsen at 14:06 — about an hour on board.

What does a seat on SL Taiju Futara cost? Ours came to ¥1,080 per adult (as of October 2024). Note that this is a reserved seat ticket rather than a limited express ticket, and a separate base fare ticket is also required. Every seat is reserved, so booking ahead is the safe approach — weekends and holidays can sell out early.

Once under way, smoke and steam drift past the window. The pace and the sound are nothing like a Shinkansen or a modern limited express. There’s a distinct sense of riding something that was never built to get you anywhere quickly.

At Kinugawa-Onsen, the Train We’d Just Ridden Was the One Turning

Kinugawa-Onsen Station has a turntable of its own. And what you watch turning there is the very SL Taiju Futara you have just stepped down from.

That morning at Shimo-Imaichi, we had been watching an unfamiliar locomotive rotate. By the afternoon it had become “the train we were sitting on an hour ago is turning right in front of us.” The same sight — but having ridden it first changed it completely.

Being able to see the turntable at both Shimo-Imaichi and Kinugawa-Onsen is one of the quiet pleasures of the Tobu Nikko Line. If your schedule allows it, do both.

Home to Asakusa on the SPACIA X

From Kinugawa-Onsen we changed to the SPACIA X for the journey home.

Departing Kinugawa-Onsen at 15:21, arriving Asakusa at 17:35 — two hours and fourteen minutes. We were in Car 3.

What does the SPACIA X cost? Kinugawa-Onsen to Asakusa came to ¥1,940 per adult (as of October 2024). That figure is the limited express charge; a separate base fare ticket is also required.

The SPACIA X entered service in 2023 as Tobu Railway’s new flagship limited express. With seating that runs from the Cockpit Lounge to private compartments, it’s the kind of train where the ride itself becomes the reason for the trip.

On board there’s a café counter called GOEN CAFE, serving drinks and sweets made specifically for the SPACIA X. Coffee taken while the scenery slides past is its own small luxury, and the mascots were thoroughly content. Popular items do sell out, so it’s worth going along early.

In the morning we were frozen in place by a steam whistle; by late afternoon we were drinking coffee aboard a brand-new express. Feeling close to a century of engineering difference in a single day, on a single line, is what makes the Tobu Nikko Line such a rewarding trip.

Summary | Two Turntables in One Day — Shimo-Imaichi and Kinugawa-Onsen

Station / train	What to see	Cost (Oct 2024, per adult)
Shimo-Imaichi Station	Engine shed and turntable; SL Taiju being turned	—
SL Taiju Futara No. 72	Tobu-Nikko 13:03 → Kinugawa-Onsen 14:06	Reserved seat ticket ¥1,080
Kinugawa-Onsen Station	The SL Taiju Futara you rode, being turned	—
SPACIA X No. 8	Kinugawa-Onsen 15:21 → Asakusa 17:35	Limited express charge ¥1,940

Steam locomotives, a brand-new flagship express, and turntables at both ends. There aren’t many lines where a single trip gives you all of that. If you’re heading for Nikko or Kinugawa-Onsen, it’s well worth breaking the journey here.

Day one of this trip is covered in a separate article — taking the Revaty Kegon out to Tobu-Nikko and visiting Nikko Toshogu Shrine.

→ Riding the Revaty Kegon to Tobu-Nikko — A Day at Nikko Toshogu Shrine

Taking the Revaty Kegon Straight to Tobu-Nikko

Our trip began aboard the limited express Revaty Kegon, operated by Tobu Railway. We left Kita-Senju at 9:43 and pulled into Tobu-Nikko at 11:22 — about an hour and forty minutes on the rails.

The Revaty Aizu and the Revaty Kegon run coupled together as a single six-car train. At Shimo-Imaichi Station on the Nikko Line, the front three cars (Revaty Aizu) are uncoupled from the rear three (Revaty Kegon). For railway fans, this uncoupling is a sight not to be missed. One word of caution, though: the Revaty Aizu pulls out almost immediately after separating, so be careful not to find yourself on the wrong half. The Revaty Kegon waits until the Aizu has gone, which gives you two or three minutes of breathing room.

The cabin is comfortable, and every seat on the Revaty has a power outlet — but it sits right next to the recline button on the armrest, which makes it surprisingly easy to miss. We never spotted ours and spent the whole ride nursing our phone batteries. Check your armrest as soon as you sit down.

Nikko has two stations, by the way: Tobu-Nikko and JR Nikko. The handsome old station building in the photo is JR Nikko. Both have real character, and simply looking at them puts you in a traveling mood.

About Tobu Limited Express Tickets

SPACIA X, Kegon and Kinu, Revaty Kegon / Revaty Kinu / Revaty Aizu, Revaty Ryomo, Ryomo, Skytree Liner — “limited express” covers a lot of ground on Tobu. The mascots genuinely agonized over whether to take the Revaty Ryomo, the Revaty Kegon, or the SPACIA X.

You need both a base fare ticket and a limited express ticket, and the total changes quite a bit depending on which train you pick. It goes more smoothly if you decide which limited express you want on the Tobu Railway website before you book. Reservations open one month ahead, and at that point you still have your pick of trains.

Revaty Kegon limited express fare Ours came to ¥1,650 per adult for Kita-Senju to Tobu-Nikko (as of October 2024). That is the limited express charge only — a separate base fare ticket is also required.

A SPACIA X Welcome at Tobu-Nikko Station

We stepped off at Tobu-Nikko Station to find a SPACIA X sitting right there on the platform. We couldn’t resist lining up beside it for a photo. 📷

We snuck a look inside as well, and the interior was so beautiful that we wanted to board on the spot. But our SPACIA X reservation was for the return trip the following day, so we held ourselves back, switched gears, and set off for Nikko Toshogu.

The SPACIA X is Tobu Railway’s newest limited express, introduced in 2023. Its range of seating — the Cockpit Lounge and box seats among them — has made it enormously popular, and reservations can be hard to come by.

Leave the Big Bags at the Hotel

Hauling heavy luggage around Nikko Toshogu is no fun at all. Our hotel had an affiliated property right in front of JR Nikko Station, so we dropped our bags there first.

That turned out to be exactly the right call. Traveling light, we caught a bus from in front of JR Nikko Station and headed for the shrine.

Getting to Nikko Toshogu: Local buses run from both JR Nikko and Tobu-Nikko stations. The ones leaving from in front of Tobu-Nikko Station are more frequent and the more convenient option. The ride takes about 10 minutes, and since this is a major sightseeing area, you rarely wait long for the next bus.

Visiting Nikko Toshogu Shrine

Hands free at last, we made our way into Nikko Toshogu — where the ticket counter had a very long line. Tickets can be purchased online in advance, and next time we certainly will. There are two main options: shrine admission on its own, or a combined ticket that includes the Treasure Museum. Full details are on the Nikko Toshogu website.

Shrine-only ticket*: ¥1,600 for adults and high school students, ¥550 for elementary and junior high school students (includes the Yomeimon Gate and the Sleeping Cat)

Shrine + Treasure Museum ticket*: ¥2,400 for adults and high school students (covers shrine admission and entry to the Treasure Museum)

*As of July 2026

Ringed by centuries-old architecture and deep forest, the grounds reward you no matter how many times you visit.

Nikko Toshogu overwhelms visitors with solemn carvings and vividly colored buildings, but what made the mascots’ eyes light up most was the Sleeping Cat, a designated National Treasure. It is one of the most famous decorative carvings at this shrine dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu — small, yet with tremendous presence. “There it is! The real thing!” they cried, and we couldn’t help laughing at the sight of them. In a space so heavy with history, it was that endearing little cat that captured them completely. The Three Wise Monkeys — “see no evil, speak no evil, hear no evil” — were there too, but we walked straight past them. There is simply that much to take in, and the time disappeared.

The Sleeping Cat is far from the only highlight here. The Yomeimon Gate is also known as the Higurashi-no-mon, the “twilight gate,” because it is said you can stand and admire it until the sun goes down without noticing. The gilded, richly colored detail work is breathtaking, and after several centuries it has lost none of its brilliance.

The cedar avenue leading to the inner shrine includes many trees more than 400 years old, and the atmosphere along it is genuinely sacred. There is so much to see at Nikko Toshogu that you should set aside two to three hours if you want to take your time.

After our visit we took the bus back to Tobu-Nikko Station, picked up bento for dinner, and headed to our lodging for the night.

A Model Course for Nikko (Day 1)

Time	What we did
Morning	Arrive at Tobu-Nikko Station on the Revaty Kegon
Morning	Drop luggage at the hotel in front of JR Nikko Station
Late morning–midday	Bus to Nikko Toshogu, visit the shrine
Evening	Pick up bento at Tobu-Nikko Station
Evening	Check in at the hotel

Tomorrow, at last, we board the SPACIA X. You can read the rest of this trip in Enjoying the SL Taiju Futara and SPACIA X.