Mascots' Travel Journal

Gion Festival Has More to Offer Than the Main Boulevard!

Gion Festival is one of Kyoto’s most iconic summer traditions. This time, instead of sticking to the main street, we discovered a whole new way to enjoy the festival — wandering through Kyoto’s narrow back alleys to find the floats and mountain floats tucked away in quieter corners of the city.

Arare Tenjin-yama: A Place That Brought Back Student Memories

Our first stop was Arare Tenjin-yama.

This float is famous for its protective power against fire, and it also happened to be a place I visited during my student days. Revisiting it brought a wave of nostalgia — and yet, looking at it with fresh eyes, I noticed new details I’d never seen before. It reminded me just how deep the history of Gion Festival really runs.

About Arare Tenjinyama: One of the iconic floats of Gion Matsuri, this float is said to have protected the city from a devastating fire in 1582 (the 10th year of the Tensho era). Its chimaki (sacred rice dumplings) are popular as fire-prevention charms and sell out quickly each year.

A New Way to Enjoy Gion Festival — Why the Back Alleys Are Worth Exploring

Here’s what makes wandering the side streets such a special experience:

• Fewer crowds than the main boulevard — you can take your time and look properly
• A warmer, more intimate atmosphere with locals nearby
• Each float and mountain float has its own unique history and story to discover
• The contrast between the traditional Kyoto townhouses and the floats makes for stunning photos

The back alleys of Gion Festival are a hidden gem — and one we’d highly recommend adding to your itinerary.

Kikusui-hoko: Another Highlight Along the Way

Next, we stopped by Kikusui-hoko. Unlike the famous floats lining the main street, the floats and mountain floats tucked into the side streets have a quietly different atmosphere.

Walking these narrow lanes, you can feel the living culture of the festival — lovingly preserved and carried forward by the local community, generation after generation.

Kikusui-hoko is one of the floats in the Gion Festival’s Sakimatsuri (front festival). It takes its name from the Noh play “Kiku Jido” and is said to grant the blessing of longevity. Original Kikusui-hoko tea and sweets are also sold on the float itself.

Things to Know Before Visiting Gion Festival

Gion Festival runs throughout the entire month of July, from the 1st to the 31st. The highlight events are the Sakimatsuri yamahoko procession on July 17th and the Atomatsuri procession on July 24th — but the Yoiyama evenings (the nights before the processions) are also incredibly lively, with food stalls and float displays filling the streets.

Tips for your visit:

• Wearing a yukata (summer kimono) adds to the atmosphere and is highly recommended
• If you want to avoid the biggest crowds, weekday mornings are your best bet
• Some floats offer paid boarding experiences — well worth trying if you get the chance
• Chimaki (protective rice dumpling charms) sold at each float make wonderful souvenirs

On the Way Home — A Chance Encounter with the Kyototrain!

After finishing our stroll, we were heading home when we stumbled upon the Kyototrain — and somehow managed to get on board!

This was a train I’d always wanted to ride. The beautiful Japanese-inspired interior design, evoking the changing seasons throughout the carriages, was everything I’d hoped for. Even the Mascots were unusually quiet, clearly soaking in the atmosphere (laughs).

Each carriage features a different interpretation of traditional Japanese aesthetics — from a karesansui dry garden space to wooden bench seating reminiscent of a traditional engawa veranda. The BGM playing softly through the carriages was equally Japanese in feel, making the whole journey feel like an extension of Kyoto itself.

Stumbling onto the Kyototrain at exactly the right moment felt like the perfect reward to round off the day. With the lingering warmth of Gion Festival still in our hearts, we made our way gently back to Osaka. Next time, I’d love to plan the trip around the train schedule so we can enjoy the full experience from start to finish.

The Kyototrain is a sightseeing train operated by Hankyu Railway. Themed around traditional Japanese aesthetics, each carriage features a different seasonal landscape. It runs mainly on weekends and public holidays between Osaka-Umeda and Kyoto-Kawaramachi. Check the schedule in advance before your visit.

Recommended Itinerary: Gion Festival + Kyototrain

Summary: Gion Festival Back Alleys + Kyototrain — The Perfect Kyoto Summer Combination

Gion Festival takes place every July. The Yoiyama evenings and yamahoko processions are especially crowded, so book your accommodation well in advance!

New Year’s Visit to Ohatsu Tenjin & Kabuki at Minami-za — Experiencing the Real Thing in 2026

A New Year’s Visit to Ohatsu Tenjin — Just Steps from Higashi-Umeda Station

For the first shrine visit of 2026, we headed to Ohatsu Tenjin (Tsuyunoten Shrine) — just a short walk from Higashi-Umeda Station.

Ohatsu Tenjin — formally known as Tsuyunoten Shrine — has a history stretching back approximately 1,300 years. It is famous as the setting of Chikamatsu Monzaemon’s bunraku puppet play “Sonezaki Shinju” (The Love Suicides at Sonezaki), and is also celebrated as a powerful spot for love and marriage blessings.

In the grounds, a statue of Ohatsu and Tokubei — the star-crossed lovers at the heart of Sonezaki Shinju — stands to welcome visitors. The shrine grounds, buzzing with New Year’s worshippers, feel like a quiet sanctuary appearing suddenly in the middle of a busy business district. It’s a strangely magical space that makes you forget the noise of the city entirely.

Ohatsu Tenjin — Basic Information

The Inspiration — a Film That Changed Everything

The spark for this whole trip was a 2025 film called “Kokuho” (National Treasure), which we finally got around to watching at the end of the year. It moved us deeply — and gave us our goal for 2026: “Make this the year we experience things of real, lasting value.”

The film featured “Sonezaki Shinju” — and the moment we saw it, we knew we had to see it performed live. A quick search turned up a production at Kyoto’s Minami-za theatre, and we booked tickets on the spot.

All Set for Minami-za — First Kabuki in 10 Years

Our last kabuki experience was at the Shinshu Kabuki in Asakusa, Tokyo — a full decade ago. And this would be our first kabuki in the Kansai region, so we made sure to prepare thoroughly. We watched an old film version of Sonezaki Shinju beforehand to make sure we had the story firmly in mind before heading to the theatre.

Walking to Minami-za — Shijo Kawaramachi Observations

On the way to Minami-za, we walked through Shijo Kawaramachi and noticed couples lined up at regular intervals along the street. A strangely poetic contrast — on our way to see a story of tragic love, surrounded by very much alive and happy modern couples.

Did you know there’s a building called Kita-za (North Theatre) on the opposite bank from Minami-za (South Theatre)? This area was once lined with numerous theatres and playhouses, and the history embedded in these streets is palpable.

Arriving at Minami-za — Exploring Before the Curtain Rises

Surprise — Minami-za Is a Western-Style Building!

We’d imagined tatami floors and a traditional Japanese interior — but the real Minami-za turned out to be full of Western architectural elements. Designated as an Important Cultural Property, the building is a sight worth exploring inside and out. Even just wandering around before the performance starts is enjoyable in its own right.

Comfortable Seating — Even for Long Performances

Every seat in the house has a chair, and cushions are also provided. The thoughtful touches throughout make it easy to stay comfortable even during long performances, and the environment is welcoming for everyone from young first-timers to older visitors. No experience with kabuki necessary — you’ll be at ease from the moment you arrive.

The performance we saw, “Sonezaki Shinju,” tells the story of Tokubei, an Osaka merchant, and his lover Ohatsu — a tale of ill-fated romance. Using the earphone guide with its modern-language translation makes it easy to follow the story even for first-time kabuki-goers. We’d strongly recommend doing some preparation beforehand — watching a film version or reading a summary really does deepen the experience.

Minami-za is one of Japan’s oldest theaters, located in Shijo-Kawaramachi, Kyoto. It is a nationally registered tangible cultural property, and the building itself is one of the highlights of any visit.

Wait — What About the Trains? Don’t Worry, We Rode Plenty!

True to our railway travel blog roots, we made sure to get our train fix too. For the journey home, we took the Hankyu Kyoto Line from Kawaramachi back to Umeda. Boarding at Shijo-Kawaramachi Station, we watched the Kyoto streetscape drift past the window as we made our way back to Osaka. The elegant maroon-colored Hankyu carriages made for the perfect close to a Kyoto day.

The Hankyu Kyoto Line connects Osaka-Umeda and Kyoto-Kawaramachi. The limited express takes approximately 43 minutes — fast and convenient. The Hankyu maroon color is one of the most iconic liveries in Japanese railways.

Summary: A Journey in Search of Real, Lasting Value

Using a film or a piece of literature as the starting point for a trip is one of the most rewarding ways to travel. The quest to experience things of real, lasting value — it continues through 2026!