Month: April 2026

New Year’s Visit to Ohatsu Tenjin & Kabuki at Minami-za — Experiencing the Real Thing in 2026

A New Year’s Visit to Ohatsu Tenjin — Just Steps from Higashi-Umeda Station

For the first shrine visit of 2026, we headed to Ohatsu Tenjin (Tsuyunoten Shrine) — just a short walk from Higashi-Umeda Station.

Ohatsu Tenjin — formally known as Tsuyunoten Shrine — has a history stretching back approximately 1,300 years. It is famous as the setting of Chikamatsu Monzaemon’s bunraku puppet play “Sonezaki Shinju” (The Love Suicides at Sonezaki), and is also celebrated as a powerful spot for love and marriage blessings.

In the grounds, a statue of Ohatsu and Tokubei — the star-crossed lovers at the heart of Sonezaki Shinju — stands to welcome visitors. The shrine grounds, buzzing with New Year’s worshippers, feel like a quiet sanctuary appearing suddenly in the middle of a busy business district. It’s a strangely magical space that makes you forget the noise of the city entirely.

Ohatsu Tenjin — Basic Information

The Inspiration — a Film That Changed Everything

The spark for this whole trip was a 2025 film called “Kokuho” (National Treasure), which we finally got around to watching at the end of the year. It moved us deeply — and gave us our goal for 2026: “Make this the year we experience things of real, lasting value.”

The film featured “Sonezaki Shinju” — and the moment we saw it, we knew we had to see it performed live. A quick search turned up a production at Kyoto’s Minami-za theatre, and we booked tickets on the spot.

All Set for Minami-za — First Kabuki in 10 Years

Our last kabuki experience was at the Shinshu Kabuki in Asakusa, Tokyo — a full decade ago. And this would be our first kabuki in the Kansai region, so we made sure to prepare thoroughly. We watched an old film version of Sonezaki Shinju beforehand to make sure we had the story firmly in mind before heading to the theatre.

Walking to Minami-za — Shijo Kawaramachi Observations

On the way to Minami-za, we walked through Shijo Kawaramachi and noticed couples lined up at regular intervals along the street. A strangely poetic contrast — on our way to see a story of tragic love, surrounded by very much alive and happy modern couples.

Did you know there’s a building called Kita-za (North Theatre) on the opposite bank from Minami-za (South Theatre)? This area was once lined with numerous theatres and playhouses, and the history embedded in these streets is palpable.

Arriving at Minami-za — Exploring Before the Curtain Rises

Surprise — Minami-za Is a Western-Style Building!

We’d imagined tatami floors and a traditional Japanese interior — but the real Minami-za turned out to be full of Western architectural elements. Designated as an Important Cultural Property, the building is a sight worth exploring inside and out. Even just wandering around before the performance starts is enjoyable in its own right.

Comfortable Seating — Even for Long Performances

Every seat in the house has a chair, and cushions are also provided. The thoughtful touches throughout make it easy to stay comfortable even during long performances, and the environment is welcoming for everyone from young first-timers to older visitors. No experience with kabuki necessary — you’ll be at ease from the moment you arrive.

The performance we saw, “Sonezaki Shinju,” tells the story of Tokubei, an Osaka merchant, and his lover Ohatsu — a tale of ill-fated romance. Using the earphone guide with its modern-language translation makes it easy to follow the story even for first-time kabuki-goers. We’d strongly recommend doing some preparation beforehand — watching a film version or reading a summary really does deepen the experience.

Minami-za is one of Japan’s oldest theaters, located in Shijo-Kawaramachi, Kyoto. It is a nationally registered tangible cultural property, and the building itself is one of the highlights of any visit.

Wait — What About the Trains? Don’t Worry, We Rode Plenty!

True to our railway travel blog roots, we made sure to get our train fix too. For the journey home, we took the Hankyu Kyoto Line from Kawaramachi back to Umeda. Boarding at Shijo-Kawaramachi Station, we watched the Kyoto streetscape drift past the window as we made our way back to Osaka. The elegant maroon-colored Hankyu carriages made for the perfect close to a Kyoto day.

The Hankyu Kyoto Line connects Osaka-Umeda and Kyoto-Kawaramachi. The limited express takes approximately 43 minutes — fast and convenient. The Hankyu maroon color is one of the most iconic liveries in Japanese railways.

Summary: A Journey in Search of Real, Lasting Value

Using a film or a piece of literature as the starting point for a trip is one of the most rewarding ways to travel. The quest to experience things of real, lasting value — it continues through 2026!